In 1996 the author left the relative stability of the United States for the chaos of post-Soviet Russia, and stayed. In this book, each chapter is an episode - spanning from several hours to several days - of his journeys to the far North, Moscow, the Ural Mountains, the Solovetsky Islands, and a southern stretch of the Volga River.

In 1996 Bryon MacWilliams left the relative stability of the United States for the chaos of post-Soviet Russia, and stayed. Over the course of nearly twelve years he reported on academe and the sciences for the world's leading publications, and sought out the best baths--or banyas--everywhere he went. His story of Russia through its cult of steam...